[A lunchtime post, via email…]
The Los Angeles Times has an interesting op-ed piece today about how the FDA is entertaining a “citizen’s petition” to allow manufacturers of chocolate to substitute vegetable fats and oils for cocoa butter… and still call the product “chocolate”. For those unfamiliar with the process, chocolate is manufactured by fermenting cacao pods, roasted them and grinding them into a fine paste that can be separated into two components: cacao solids (commonly called cocoa powder) and cocoa butter. Each chocolatier then uses different proportions but generally blends sugar, cocoa solids and cocoa butter plus any optional ingredients [emulsifiers, flavors (typically vanilla), milk solids (to make milk chocolate)], molding the result into the desir!
ed shape. The cocoa butter is a unique fat in that it melts at body temperature, giving the chocolate feel. Products made with other oils may look and smell like chocolate, but don’t have that “mmmmmm” quality. Here’s an example: 9 of the 10 bestselling U.S. chocolate candies are made with cocoa butter: M&Ms, Hershey Bars, Reese’s Peanut Butter Cups. Butterfinger is the outlier, and who eats Butterfinger for the chocolate quality?
The petition, sponsored by the Chocolate Manufacturers Assn., the Grocery Manufacturers Assn., the Snack Food Assn. and the National Cattlemen’s Beef Assn., states: “Consumer expectations still define the basic nature of a food. There are, however, no generally held consumer expectations today concerning the precise technical elements by which commonly recognized, standardized foods are produced. Consumers, therefore, are not likely to have formed expectations as to production methods, aging time or specific ingredients used for technical improvements, including manufacturing efficiencies.” In real-person speak, this means they believe that you and I won’t be able to notice the difference. To that I say “Ha!”. I’ll say it again, “Ha!”
According to the article, the name of the FDA docket is “2007P-0085: Adopt Regulations of General Applicability to All Food Standards that Would Permit, Within Stated Boundaries, Deviations from the Requirements of the Individual Food Standards of Identity.” Comments are accepted by fax, mail or online. I think we should spread the word about this. There are some things in this world that should be sacrosanct… and chocolate is one of them!
